Raw vs. Sanforized vs. Unsanforized vs. Washed Denim
Raw, sanforized, unsanforized, washed—these are some of the most common terms you'll encounter when shopping for premium denim. While they're often confused, each describes a different aspect of the fabric. Here's what they really mean.
Understanding the Difference
One of the biggest misconceptions about denim is that raw and sanforized are opposites.
They're not.
Raw describes whether the denim has been washed after it's made.
Sanforized describes whether the fabric has been mechanically pre-shrunk during manufacturing.
That means a pair of jeans can be:
- Raw and sanforized
- Raw and unsanforized
- Washed and sanforized
Understanding the difference makes choosing the right pair much easier.
What Is Raw Denim?
Raw denim—also known as dry denim—has not been washed or distressed after the fabric is woven and the jeans are made.
Because the indigo remains on the surface of the yarns, the fabric gradually develops personalised fades through everyday wear.
Every crease, fold, and point of friction becomes part of your jeans' unique story.
Raw denim can be either sanforized or unsanforized.
What Is Sanforized Denim?
Sanforization is a mechanical pre-shrinking process invented in the 1930s to reduce shrinkage after washing.
During manufacturing, the fabric is treated under controlled heat, moisture, and pressure, making the finished jeans much more stable in size.
Most sanforized denim shrinks by only 3–5% (approximately 1 inch or less) after the first wash or soak.
This makes sizing far more predictable and allows you to purchase your usual size with confidence.
What Is Unsanforized Denim?
Unsanforized denim has not gone through the sanforization process.
Traditionally, this type of denim can shrink noticeably during its first soak or wash, requiring more attention when choosing a size.
Many enthusiasts appreciate unsanforized denim for its traditional character and hands-on experience, but it usually requires a little more planning before regular wear.
Because different mills use different finishing techniques, shrinkage can vary considerably between fabrics. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for sizing and first soak instructions.
What Is Washed Denim?
Washed denim has been washed after the jeans are constructed to soften the fabric, reduce shrinkage, and create a more comfortable feel from the first wear.
Depending on the finishing process, washed denim may also feature fading, whiskering, distressing, or vintage effects that have already been created at the factory.
Unlike raw denim, washed denim develops much more subtle wear patterns because much of the ageing process has already taken place.
Quick Comparison
| Feature | Raw Denim | Sanforized Denim | Unsanforized Denim | Washed Denim |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Washed after construction | ✗ | Can be raw or washed | Can be raw or washed | ✓ |
| Pre-shrunk | Depends | ✓ | ✗ | Usually ✓ |
| Typical shrinkage | Depends on sanforization | About 3–5% | Varies by fabric and manufacturer | Minimal |
| Break-in period | Longer | Moderate | Longer | Very short |
| Personal fade potential | Excellent | Excellent | Excellent | More limited |
Which Should You Choose?
If you're buying your first pair of premium denim, raw sanforized denim is often the easiest place to start.
It offers the full raw denim experience while keeping sizing simple and predictable.
If you enjoy a more traditional approach and don't mind learning about shrinkage and sizing, raw unsanforized denim offers a more hands-on experience that many enthusiasts appreciate.
If comfort from day one is your priority, washed denim provides a softer feel with little or no break-in period.
MITH NOTE
Mith Denim uses sanforized Japanese selvedge raw denim, combining the authentic character of raw denim with predictable sizing and minimal shrinkage.
The result is denim that breaks in naturally, develops beautiful fades over time, and fits consistently from the very beginning.