New to raw denim? This glossary explains the most common denim terms—from selvedge and sanforization to honeycombs and whiskers—so you can shop, wear, and care for your jeans with confidence.
A
Air Dry
The recommended method for drying raw denim after washing or soaking. Air drying helps minimise shrinkage, protects the cotton fibres, and preserves the fabric's natural character. Tumble drying is generally not recommended.
B
Break-In
The period during which a new pair of raw denim jeans gradually softens and moulds to the wearer's body. Depending on the fabric weight and frequency of wear, this process can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months.
C
Chain Stitch
A durable stitching technique commonly used on premium denim, particularly along the hem. Over time, chain-stitched hems often develop the distinctive “rope fade” prized by denim enthusiasts.
Cone Mills
A historic American denim mill renowned for producing high-quality selvedge denim for over a century. Although its famous White Oak mill closed in 2017, Cone Mills remains an important part of denim history.
D
Denim Weight
The weight of denim fabric, measured in ounces per square yard (oz). Lighter weights offer greater comfort and breathability, while heavier weights provide a firmer feel and typically require a longer break-in period.
Dry Denim
Another name for raw denim.
F
Fade
The gradual lightening of indigo dye through everyday wear. Every fade pattern is unique to the wearer and reflects how the jeans have been used over time.
H
Honeycombs
Horizontal fade lines that develop behind the knees as the fabric repeatedly bends during everyday movement.
I
Indigo
The traditional blue dye used to colour denim. Indigo primarily coats the outside of the cotton yarn, allowing the fabric to fade naturally as it wears.
Indigo Transfer
The natural transfer of surface indigo dye onto lighter-coloured clothing, shoes, bags, or furniture during the early stages of wearing raw denim.
J
Japanese Denim
Denim produced by Japanese mills renowned for their craftsmanship, traditional shuttle looms, premium cotton, and exceptional fade potential.
K
Kaihara
One of Japan's most respected denim mills, recognised worldwide for producing premium selvedge denim. Mith Denim proudly sources selected fabrics from Kaihara.
Kojima
A district in Okayama Prefecture, Japan, widely regarded as the birthplace of Japanese denim and home to many of the world's most respected denim mills.
L
Loomstate
Another term for unsanforized denim. Loomstate denim has not undergone pre-shrinking and typically requires a soak before regular wear.
N
Nep
Small knots or tiny flecks of cotton visible within the fabric. Nep creates texture and gives denim a more vintage appearance.
O
Ounce (oz)
The standard unit used to describe denim weight. Higher ounce denim generally feels heavier, stiffer, and requires a longer break-in period.
Okayama
Japan's most famous denim-producing region, internationally recognised for exceptional craftsmanship and premium selvedge fabrics.
P
Pocket Fade
Fade patterns created by items regularly carried in your pockets, such as wallets, keys, or mobile phones.
R
Raw Denim
Denim that has not been washed, distressed, or artificially aged after production. It gradually develops unique fades and character through everyday wear.
Rope Fade
A distinctive fading pattern that develops along a chain-stitched hem after repeated wear and washing.
S
Sanforized
Denim that has been mechanically pre-shrunk during manufacturing to minimise shrinkage after washing. Mith Denim uses sanforized Japanese selvedge denim.
Selvedge (Selvage)
A tightly woven, self-finished edge created by traditional shuttle looms. The clean edge prevents fraying and is often visible when jeans are cuffed.
Shuttle Loom
Traditional narrow weaving machines used to produce selvedge denim. They operate much more slowly than modern looms, creating fabric with distinctive texture and character.
Slub
Natural variations in yarn thickness that create subtle texture across the denim surface. Slub becomes more noticeable as the jeans fade.
Soak
The process of immersing raw denim in water before or during its life to control shrinkage, remove excess surface indigo, or refresh the fabric.
Stacks
Vertical folds that develop around the ankles when jeans have a longer inseam than the wearer's leg length.
U
Unsanforized
Raw denim that has not been pre-shrunk. It typically shrinks significantly after the first soak or wash and requires more careful sizing than sanforized denim.
W
Wallet Fade
A fade pattern created by carrying a wallet in the back pocket over an extended period.
Warp
The lengthwise yarns of denim fabric. These yarns are typically dyed with indigo and form the visible outer surface of the fabric.
Weft
The crosswise yarns woven through the warp. Most denim uses undyed or lightly coloured weft yarns, which become visible as the indigo fades.
Whiskers
Fine horizontal fade lines that develop across the upper thighs and hips where the fabric naturally creases while sitting and walking.
Y
Yarn-Dyed
A dyeing method in which individual yarns are coloured before being woven into fabric. Denim is traditionally made using indigo-dyed warp yarns and undyed weft yarns.
Mith Note: Raw denim has its own language, and learning a few key terms makes the experience even more rewarding. Whether you're choosing your first pair or comparing fabrics, understanding these concepts will help you appreciate the craftsmanship behind every pair of Mith Denim jeans.