The First Soak Guide
A first soak isn't always necessary, but understanding when and why to do one can help you get the best fit, comfort, and long-term fade potential from your raw denim. Here's everything you need to know before wearing your new pair.
Do You Need a First Soak?
Whether you should soak your jeans depends on the type of raw denim you own.
Sanforized raw denim has already been mechanically pre-shrunk during manufacturing, so a first soak is optional. Many enthusiasts still choose to soak their jeans before wearing them to help relax the fabric, remove excess surface indigo, and begin the break-in process, but it isn't necessary for sizing.
Unsanforized raw denim has not undergone the sanforization process. Traditionally, a first soak is recommended to allow the fabric to shrink naturally before regular wear and establish a more predictable fit.
MITH NOTE
The Japanese fabrics used by Mith Denim are sanforized and mechanically pre-shrunk during manufacturing. As a result, they typically shrink by 3–5% (approximately 1 inch) after the first wash or soak when cared for according to our recommendations.
Because of this, a first soak is optional, but many enthusiasts still choose to do one to relax the fabric, remove excess surface indigo, and begin the break-in process.
Cold Soak (Recommended for Sanforized Raw Denim)
A cold soak is the gentlest way to prepare your jeans for wear while preserving the rich indigo colour.
Step-by-Step
- Fill a bathtub or large basin with cold, clean water.
- Turn your jeans inside out.
- Submerge them completely, pressing out any trapped air.
- Leave them to soak for 30–45 minutes.
- Remove the jeans and gently squeeze out excess water. Never wring or twist the fabric.
- Hang them by the waistband in a shaded, well-ventilated area until completely dry.
Some enthusiasts choose to wear their jeans while they are still slightly damp so the fabric can mould more closely to their body. While this can create a more personalised fit, it is entirely optional. Simply allowing the jeans to air dry naturally produces excellent results for most people.
Hot Soak (For Traditional Unsanforized Denim)
Some traditional unsanforized denim is designed to shrink significantly during its first soak.
If your manufacturer recommends a hot soak, use hot tap water (approximately 50–60°C / 120–140°F) and soak the jeans for 30–45 minutes. The fabric will shrink noticeably, helping establish its final size before regular wear.
Always follow the care recommendations provided by the manufacturer, as different fabrics and mills may require different approaches.
What to Expect
Don't be surprised if the water turns deep blue during the soak.
This is completely normal and simply means excess surface indigo is being released from the fabric. It does not mean your jeans are losing their colour permanently. The indigo that creates your future fades remains within the yarn, while the loose surface dye naturally washes away during the first few wears and washes.
After soaking, your jeans may feel slightly softer and more flexible. This is simply the fabric beginning to relax. The true character of raw denim develops gradually through regular wear over months and years.
After the Soak
Hang your jeans by the waistband in a shaded, well-ventilated area and allow them to dry naturally.
Avoid prolonged direct sunlight during drying, as it may cause uneven fading.
Depending on temperature and humidity, drying usually takes 12–24 hours.
Once completely dry, put them on and start wearing them. The journey has officially begun.
Quick Checklist
✔ Turn your jeans inside out.
✔ Use clean, cold water.
✔ Soak for 30–45 minutes.
✔ Gently squeeze out excess water—never wring.
✔ Hang dry naturally.
✔ Avoid tumble drying.
✔ Keep out of prolonged direct sunlight while drying.
MITH NOTE
A first soak isn't about achieving perfection—it's about giving your denim the best possible start.
Every pair responds a little differently, and that's part of what makes raw denim so rewarding. Those small differences become part of the unique character your jeans develop over time.
A Note on Patience
Raw denim rewards patience more than anything else.
The fades that enthusiasts admire—the honeycombs behind the knees, the whiskers around the hips, the subtle wear patterns around the pockets, and the beautiful contrast that develops across the fabric—are created through everyday wear, not shortcuts.
Wear your jeans often. Live in them. Let time do the work.